STREET Chic takes over

A long long time ago in a fashion once upon a time, in the magical land of Chanel. The ruler, a man by the name of Karl Lagerfeld, looked out upon the land of well heeled elite sporting big jewelry and expensive tailored taste, and declared to the rest of the world, “Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control over your life so you bought some sweatpants.” Right then, bet he didn’t see Norm Core coming embodied by his muse Cara Delavigne.

The last year or so brought a big change quickly in fashion ,the anti style movement, the new grunge, called, “The Art of Dressing Normal” by the recent Gap Campaign.

The establishment was quickly overturned as too ornamental, too contrived, too much, and too old. The cool kid, the hipster, the fan of vintage ironic t’s took over, and YSL, now Saint Laurent, as if psychic anticipated the trend and put Courtney Love and Marilyn Manson in their Spring 2013 ad campaign. Their company makeover catered to tailored Rockers like many of their remarkably hip and cool employees. Go into any of their stores you will see what I mean.St Laurent 2013 spring ad campaign

Street Influence coming into the upper stratosphere of society is a cycle that we see repeating in history. The story goes- the Swiss Army ( Swiss Army- not an oxymoron at the time) Beat the Duke of Burgandy’s royal butt into the ground in 1475. The German Mercenaries, employed in the Army, repaired their clothes with his fine material effectively creating the Dagged and Slashed look. Form followed fashion, and it became the manner in which men of arms would treat their clothes in an attempt to provoke a fight and prove their skills. The nobles romantically embraced the look which later became the rage throughout the 15th Century, Like on this Buxom fellow, King Henry the 8th.im

Later in revolutionary France you have the same thing happening with a group of men given the name Sans Cullottes. They were the idealized revolutionary, they effected an exaggerated manner of speech and dress that was meant to provoke a fight as well. And though swords had been banned, they developed a very equally flowery but effective art called Le Canne Francaise- or Cane fighting. The revolution espoused the ideas of Freedom, Equality, and brotherhood for all against the decadence of the French Empire. Sans Cullottes fashion became political, everyone adopting the dress as a form of solidarity for fear of being beheaded.

Which speeds us back to today. At the quick appearance and disappearance of norm core but the remaining of street chic as a prevalent trend, I started to ask questions , why? Many people under 25 I spoke to described a disconnect between what they were seeing in the magazines and themselves. Not only the over retouching, the over slimming, idealized impossible versions of beauty, but they did not desire to consume classic silhouettes and what they termed of as old lady clothing. Jewelry was now tiny and gold, slim chains around svelte ankles and necks, stacked rings. Mind you, the clothing was no less expensive, the kids saved for the coveted Balenciaga or St Laurent broken in Moto jacket, two labels that had anticipated the social change and had adapted long before any other brand had. This jacket was now paired with trainers, which could be equally Converse or Nike as it could be Louboutin, and a broken in beat up tshirt they may have slept in with their bra showing. High low was now it. Your makeup is fresh, you hair disheveled.

Enter Ricardo Tisci appointed in 2005 for Givenchy. Not Only Could Ricardo give us confections that would have made Mcqueen proud , he gave Givenchy street cred with the people he is friends with and his public unwillingness to bow down to any social pressure. He’s got the I don’t give a f@*# of an Enfant Terrible, coupled with loyalty. A rare trait in any business. Take a look at his instagram and it completely encapsulates the new wave of fashion.

The new Fashionista, is a pop cultuarist. A musical elitist. They may not have come from the best families or swiss boarding schools. They never had a coming out debut. Some call it the New Bohemian, regardless there is something Maudlin about it. They are mixed races, international from all types of social backgrounds listening to all sorts of music. They are into art- maybe because of graffiti. Sometimes they are way too into themselves. Most have tattoos, and they never associate with the word hipster. Fashion is reflecting where we are going and rejecting where we came from, the street is influencing every level of society, recorded daily in the endless arrays of selfies reflecting back at us. Even King Karl felt the coming of the new tide. He designed a jean line for Chanel and on his finale look for fall 2014 on the beautiful Cara Delavigne, a pink distressed nod to Jog pants.

Ise White
Fashion editor/Stylist

Hunger Games Premiere …surpise?

At 130pm my good friend asks me if I want to go to a movie premiere about a mockingbird at Lincoln center tonight at 7pm. So there I am dressing day red carpet, nothing over the top, because I think hes inviting me to some sort of Harper Lee to Kill a Mockingbird opening , until the car drops me off at the red carpet and Im funnelled into the press line pressed between very Star struck yoing faces, and HUGE body guards….and then I see the poster…and then Liam Hemsworth walks out and all the cameras start flashing….I text my friend….We are at the HUNGER GAMES premiere????? His response? Its about some bird… pick up popcorn on your way up to the VIP section and grab us some drinks too please.

Picture by Hunger Games Instagram

Picture by Hunger Games Instagram

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2015-And We Are Back

Its been awhile since Ive had time to sit and write. Its funny how the mind works, it has movements its own patterns. There are times when it wishes to create only in images, and now finally in words. Im sitting in the Hilton in Las Vegas with the cool crew from Robot Heart/Burning Man, to make the campaign images for Further Future. My assistant is outside on a walk smoking his lone cigarette. My friend, model, Kailey Hsu is upstairs resting for her early call time tomorrow.  Woods, makeup, and Jacob, hair, are upstairs dreaming in glitter. Its the first time I’ve been alone in days. Generally speaking I am not an “alone’ kind of person, much prefer the company of good people. Tonight though a chance to catch up with oneself. To reflect. Sometimes we allow ourselves to get so caught up in our busyness that we forget to stop and breathe. My younger brother used to be my stopping mechanism. His innocent pleas to spend time together cut thru my bullshit.  Now he is grown and too busy. I wonder if he stops to reflect or if someone else matters enough to him to get him to pause. It seems like no , and it will take something monumental to shake him up, to touch his heart. Getting a foster younger sibling dropped on your doorstep woke me up. If we are lucky we get those moments that save us as human beings, and we rise up to it. And if we are even luckier we get to pass it on. I’d like to think I get a chance to do that every day with my team. We don’t just work together, this has become an extension of my family. Im lucky.
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2014

Its been awhile since I have had time to write we had such a busy end of the year. We had the pleasure of shooting a cover with Jessica Alba in  LA with the lovely Cliff Watts right before Xmas break as well as working again with De Niro for Conde Nast Traveller with my friend Marco Grob. Our shoot with Miranda Kerr came out for Elle China came out and sadly they did not run this shot. I love this rick Own’s Jacket and Jacob and co necklace. I will write more when I land in Paris in a week for another cover shoot in the middle of Fashion week NYC. This year is already looking to be a busy one!Elle_China_01_108a

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BIG Drop NYc Summer Styling Session

Getting to know a Big Drop Client

Getting to know a Big Drop Client

 

The Beautiful Team at Big Drop!

The Beautiful Team at Big Drop!

 

Stylist_eventday1 097I was graciously invited to participate in the Big Drop Summer stylist Series. What a pleasure! I understand why there is such a following there. Everyone who works there you can see is so happy to be there and be helpful to anyone who comes in. Customer service, I’ve heard many complain is an antiquated idea, yards of pages in Yelp are dedicated to scathing reviews, but not here.

Plus Im a huge fan of Haute Hippe and  J Brand. Their private labels are GORG! AND SILK , not poly.  They have gorgeous selects for the summer. The store is broken down into easy to understand groups of styles and colour ways. Up to date silhouettes as well as flirty evening numbers, and more fashion forward pieces. Plus someone cute from Hobson will deliver to your doorstep. Really what more can you ask for… well if he’d bring chocolate too that would be everything.

BIG Drop delivery right to your door stop from a CUTE man. Really what more could you ask for.

BIG Drop delivery right to your door stop from a CUTE man. Really what more could you ask for.

Going over selected looks for a client

Going over selected looks for a client

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The great Robert De Niro and Thank you’s for the letters.

Elle Men China March Anniversary Issue shot by Alexei Haye

Elle Men China March Anniversary Issue shot by Alexei Haye

Lately I’ve been getting a few more letters than usual from fans and admirers of the work we are doing. I want to take a moment out to say thank you. I am always humbled that someone took time out of their day to reach out and write some of the beautiful letters I have gotten . It means alot to me.  Let me also say that I am grateful that you resonate with the work as part of your journey and from the bottom of my heart I hope that we all get to live the fullest expression of our best dreams.

Like this man here. Working with him was a flawless experience. He is one of the GREATS. As was shooting with an impeccable voice like Alexei Haye.

 

SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA

Swedish House Mafia  fro Billboard Magazine

Swedish House Mafia for Billboard Magazine

This will easily go down as one of my favorite shoots. Andrew Horton the creative director at Billboard Magazine and shot by Chris Buck, both made the shoot smooth, and the guys themselves were professional, caring, and unjaded. Everything you hope your rockstars will be and seldom are. Their entire staff was equally full of heart and soul. This is a team that really loved working with each other. I ,like many of their fans ,will be sad to see these guys breakup, but Im excited to hear what solo albums they have cooking up their sleeves.

 

 

The ICONIC Clutch

McQueen  Winter Clutch

McQueen Winter Clutch

Every woman has her obsession, for some its sunglasses, shoes, or bags. Lately I’ve seen a real resurgence in the clutch. It was for most of the past few decades an afterthought not given a lot of attention , a satin something that you could fit a card, key, lipstick in and that was about it. The only exception would have been the Judith Lieber crystal encrusted clutches. At one point they were the most coveted socialite evening bag. They ranged from $1000-$6000+. Sex and the City had a few humorous interludes involving one. Judith pioneered the resurgence of the small bag  from relative neglect since the 20’s.

Crystal Leopard

Crystal Leopard

 

Russian Egg from Judith Lieber

Russian Egg from Judith Lieber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a great Tmagazine by Yuri Chong article on the new Handbag Museum in Seoul, Korea, The Simone Handbag Museum,  they show these beautiful examples of early purses which were for carrying herbs or sweetmeats and then as women gained independence , money. Screen shot 2013-02-03 at 10.05.22 AM

 

weetmeat purse, French, c. 1670–80. Made with silk and metal brocade, braid and ribbon. Dan Matthews, courtesy of the Simone Handbag Museum

Sweetmeat purse, French, c. 1670–80. Made with silk and metal brocade, braid and ribbon. Dan Matthews, courtesy of the Simone Handbag Museum

 

 

Kate Spade stepped into the scene in 1993 from Mademoiselle Magazine with her Husband Andy Spade. Known very well for her signature bags, I do have a particular soft spot for how clever and  charming her clutches are too.

Kate Spade all wood cuckoo clutch

Kate Spade all wood cuckoo clutch

Kiss the frog clutch

Kiss the frog clutch

Then recently The Mcqueen studio came out with a 4 figure clutch that became the hottest ticket item the way the Marc Jacobs handbag had become in the early 2000’s . This seemed to be the tipping point for the clutch to now to come into its own.

Depending on your price point , Judith has come out with a diffusion line of clutches, Oscar de La renta has some beautiful offerings, last seasons red alligator clutch was a gorgeous season must at   $5000.00+. I am also particularly fond of what Olympia Tan is doing with their sold out line of “Book” Clutches. This insertion of humor and cleverness is elevating the clutch from an after thought into something delightful and fun to have with you. It can break the ice, be a conversation starter, or simply make you smile when you put your credit card, key, and lipstick in it.

McQueen Lady Like knuckle clutch

McQueen Lady Like knuckle clutch

Kate Spade Boat Clutch

Kate Spade Boat Clutch

McQueen Beaded clutch

McQueen Beaded clutcholympia_sacii_9724_420x420_4

Charlotte Olympia Clutch
Olympia Tan Clutch

Charlotte Olympia Book Clutch
Olympia Tan Book Clutch

 

 

 

John Robert Miller, RIP. Stephen Burrows we love you.

I was introduced to John Miller and Stephen Burrows through an esteemed and highly respected Editor. I was unfamiliar with the house and only after meeting them did I realize what a legend I was in the presence of and how lucky I was to work with such an important piece of fashion History. And in the middle of it keeping Stephen inspired and the house running together with panache was John.

It’s hard to explain what Stephen Burrows, Giorgio Sant Angelo and Halston represented when I arrived in NY in 1970….they were IT !!! So modern, so free….soooo fashion

— Diane Von Furstenberg

What I admired most about him was his complete lack of ego. He believed in Stephen, and when he believed in something he gave it his all. he did nothing by halves that man.  John passed from this world a few days ago. His memorial is Thursday, with funeral dates to follow soon. We’ve all gotten  closer and became better because of you. I like everyone who knew you will miss you.

 

John, Steve, Rob, and DJ Choimatic

Patrick McMullen and Pat Cleaveland

Stephen with the launch of his Barbie

 

IFC Adopt a comic

There Are a few jobs that will go down in your memory with a smile, and this is one of them. Right from the word go, the Art Director from IFC , all she heard on the conference call was me falling off my chair laughing as we debated whether we would dress Chris Gethard in a baby duck outfit, Catepillar, Moth or Bubmblebee , a la Anne Geddess. This was punctuated by the 5 foot egg discussion that Chris and I had ordered from Giantegg.net. Our Carpenter astutely asked where was their business before the internet??? As thats what they did giant fiberglass eggs. 3ft, 5ft, 10 ft fibreglass eggs folks, who knew??

Then we get to the job and Chris gets on set and we tell him about the “monster slime, the baby diaper, and the baby duck hat with feathers” he doesnt even blink an eye, not even when we put him on the leaf nekkid, ok with a nude dancers thong really, with a giant painted lady bug.

Then comes the Angel wings, and we spontaneously grabbed my assistant and friend, Alessio , and put him into a impromptu blue satin toga. ” Sweeet Baby Jesus!” I yelled from somewhere on the side of the monitor where I was leaning over clutching my sides from laughing.

This shot minus Alessio made the Billboard. This shot was spontaneous and unplanned something special Chris and I cooked up that morning.

http://www.ifc.com/adopt-a-comic-2/videos/adopt-a-comic-chris-gethard

So IFC Yes , yes anytime anywhere, you me ,and Chris we are ready. Lets shoot it.

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